New names prove their worth on menswear day of London Fashion Week
Menswear was at the spotlight of LFW, showing a range of talent to prove why men's fashion in the capital is among the most vibrant around…
BY CHARLIE PORTER | 23 SEPTEMBER 2010
If there was any trend during men's day at London Fashion Week, it was of young talent making good.
Held at the end of London Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2011, the aim was to bring men's fashion on level pegging with the city's now-celebrated womenswear designers. But by finding links between young designers and the new names of Savile Row, men's day is creating a movement all of its own.
The key catwalk names are James Long and Christopher Shannon, both designers in their twenties whose confidence increases with every season.
Long worked around effects with paint, and was at his best with sweaters knitted with the effect of an artists splatters, among a mix of biker jackets and paint effect shorts. Shannon's designs are deceptively simple, based on the streetwear of sweat-tops and track pants, but his eye for colour is beguiling. His colour-blocked and paneled pieces felt like a hyper-real version of what young men are actually wearing in the 21st century. Both these designers are still starting their businesses, and now need to translate catwalk creativity into sales and stockists.
No such problem was had by E Tautz, the ready-to-wear line from Savile Row tailors Norton & Sons, whose presentation was packed by the stores that already carry the line (Harrods and Matches) as well as every other store who want it on its racks.
E Tautz proprietor, the dapper Patrick Grant, talked the salon audience through each look; strongest with linen mix jackets for a loose summertime look, tuck stitch cashmere sweaters, and a cotton top in Grant's old school rugby colours.
It's to the great credit of men's day therefore that such sartorial propositions, like E. Tautz and upstart tailoring line A. Sauvage, can sit alongside displays of youthful individualism and willfulness.
J.W. Anderson continued to impress many with the romanticism of his vision, though his relentless patchwork and crochet decorations could do with more focus on the cut of the clothes themselves. Katie Eary showed her wild prints on trainee boxers, while Omar Kashoura's sense of colour and cut was at its most assured when worn by a live jazz band.
Meanwhile designer Lou Dalton came into her own with one of the most wearable, and commercial, collections of the day, with batik detailing on otherwise simple summertime shorts, shirts and sweet suit jackets.
The whole day was closed by Ozwald Boateng's celebration of 25 years in tailoring; a relentless parade of looks that worked best when concentrated on his bold use of colour. But this being London, it was the new names who were the prime focus.
Matthew Miller and William Richard Green are both designers straight out of college who showed real promise with their installations. Both could be future candidates for the MAN show, the twice-yearly celebration of new talent organised by Lulu Kennedy of Fashion East.
This season Martine Rose pushed herself to create a collection of real vivacity, best when it channeled cycling tops; Felipe Rojas Llanos showed real grace with his colour and subtle volume, while New Power Studio used dancers and a small child turned into a backpack to display its sweat-pants and sweat-tops, proving how new London menswear can be wearable, sellable, but also damn good fun.
n.x
Ohhh nice i want it>>
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